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T-Case Drop

Transfer Case Spacers


Updated July 29, 2004 I removed this t-case drop after installing 4* shims under my rear leaf springs. The shims help correct the driveline angles, and with an SYE the t-case drop is redundant.

Adding a transfer-case drop is pretty easy; you have a bolt and a stud holding each side of the t-case crossmember. Use PB Blaster or a good penetrating oil for a few days before attempting this to loosen the bolts. WD40 isn't a good penetrant/loosener. Support the crossmember with a floor jack and remove the bolt from one side of the Jeep. Take the nut off the stud and lower the crossmember about two inches.

Common Problem

The stock configuration is to have one bolt and one stud in each side of the crossmember. The bolt often comes out easily but the stud gets corroded in place. You can use a vise-grip on the stud to twist it out, or take two nuts and lock them together to twist it out. I had to tighten one of mine slightly before I was able to loosen it; that's all it needed to break free. Resist the urge to whack the nut and stud up into the frame since you'll need the nut again to bolt the t-case drop.

 

Once you've got one side done, slip the spacers between the frame and crossmember and bolt them up. Don't tighten all the way yet since you have to repeat with the other side. Enjoy...

You can see the bolts underneath going up into the frame.  The spacers are the shiny pieces just over the crossmember

If you are buying new bolts, they are a 10mm (aka M10) with 1.50 pitch. I'm pretty sure a 35-40mm bolt will work, but I'm running 50mm bolts currently since the excess length goes into the frame void.

e-mail Jim
created: Dec 28, 2002
Updated Nov 11, 2004